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Thread: How to build your own fibreglass car from scratch

  1. #1
    Senior Member Phill's Avatar
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    How to build your own fibreglass car from scratch

    I came across this brilliant video on you tube which take you through all the stages of building a buck then set of moulds for producing a fibreglass car. Many will already know the steps involved but for someone like me who has always wondered how it was all done this is a real eye opener:-

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oz3h7LQj-p4
    "The most beautiful kit car in the world - Motor"

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    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** BlueNova's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phill View Post
    I came across this brilliant video on you tube which take you through all the stages of building a buck then set of moulds for producing a fibreglass car. Many will already know the steps involved but for someone like me who has always wondered how it was all done this is a real eye opener:-

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oz3h7LQj-p4
    What a brilliant video Phill.

    Not just the fibreglass side of things but his engineering work to produce an adapter plate for the gearbox, making his own muffler on the exhaust, subframe, ECU and wiring harness, and suspension components, etc, etc ..... the guy's a genius!!

  3. #3
    I really enjoyed that and I'm hooked! So interesting to see his methods and skills in so many different areas, I'm going to have to watch them all now. What a great way to learn and get new ideas on fabrication

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    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** Peter's Avatar
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    I really enjoyed it too. As you guys know me and fibre glass yuk! Just don't get on, I would rather hand beat alloy sheet into shape.

    Resin and cloth here is stupid expensive, about 20€ m2, so by the time made a plug, then a mould then a cast item I would be broke for a year.
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    Watched it this evening - amazing

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    I have been planning to do this sort of thing for a very long time and have binge watched all the grp videos. Recently I had already got to the 1/4 model stage on my Voodoo replica, but during the model build I realised the midtec spyder chassis (I originally intended to use) was not proportioned correctly. I will now have to make my own voodoo chassis.... and probably make another body to suit the midtec spyder chassis ( ginetta g12p / lytning g12p shape). But I do plan to finish the Nova at some point after the Piper and before all the other projects! So many projects and so little time! Hopefully I have managed to attach a picture of the 1/4 scale voodoo model on the midtec chassis (in my kitchen) with the Nova loitering outside.

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    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** Spacenut's Avatar
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    Wow Piper, that is a lot of projects!

    Midtec chassis places the seats too far forwards due to the in-line Ford mid-engine configuration; the Voodoo was Hillman Imp rear engined of course. The styling emphasises this body mass at the rear of the car, just like the Nova.

    Your model is so accurate I can see that you are planning to use an Ultima windscreen, which is too tall and upright for the Voodoo. You really need to use a Chevron B16 screen. There was a limited production run of road-going B16s, so the windscreen pattern must be available in glass.

    Looking forward to seeing your progress!

    Lauren
    only Pythagoras can save me now!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Spacenut View Post
    Wow Piper, that is a lot of projects!

    Midtec chassis places the seats too far forwards due to the in-line Ford mid-engine configuration; the Voodoo was Hillman Imp rear engined of course. The styling emphasises this body mass at the rear of the car, just like the Nova.

    Your model is so accurate I can see that you are planning to use an Ultima windscreen, which is too tall and upright for the Voodoo. You really need to use a Chevron B16 screen. There was a limited production run of road-going B16s, so the windscreen pattern must be available in glass.

    Looking forward to seeing your progress!

    Lauren
    Yes I spotted the fundamental flaw of the in line mid vs the imp setup at the drawing board stage so continued with the model knowing the midtec chassis was no good. I actually used the midtec windscreen size on this model (Saab 96 rear screen I believe ] to see how it looks..... because I had contacted pilkingtons about 5 years ago to get a quote for the correct B16 screen and at that time it was about £1000 including heating elements. I will re contact pilkingtons to see how much it will be next year now their facilities are in Europe. Clearly I am resisting starting the voodoo too early as I have to finish the few other cars in line before the Nova.
    Regards, John

  10. #10
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** Spacenut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Piperphasetwo View Post
    Yes I spotted the fundamental flaw of the in line mid vs the imp setup at the drawing board stage so continued with the model knowing the midtec chassis was no good. I actually used the midtec windscreen size on this model (Saab 96 rear screen I believe ] to see how it looks..... because I had contacted pilkingtons about 5 years ago to get a quote for the correct B16 screen and at that time it was about £1000 including heating elements. I will re contact pilkingtons to see how much it will be next year now their facilities are in Europe. Clearly I am resisting starting the voodoo too early as I have to finish the few other cars in line before the Nova.
    Regards, John
    I see what you mean now - a SAAB 96 rear screen!

    I wonder if the Ultima uses the same pattern???

    £1k sounds pretty reasonable for a screen with heating elements. Adding the obscuration band to the Nova screen put me in the same price bracket. Do you think you will need the heating elements? A water heater would be significantly cheaper to install, and if the cabin ventilation is adequate, can be effective...
    only Pythagoras can save me now!

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