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Thread: Type 4 strip down

  1. #11
    So today was to strip and separate the block, and itís easy to miss all the bolts that hold it together. If you are struggling to get it apart, itís highly likely you have missed a bolt, or in my case 3 that were hidden under dried mud!
    After the initial shock of finding pieces of aluminium around the strainer, as Phil suspected these just turned out to be debris from an earlier incident that occurred with the engine.
    Finally got it all apart and things donít look to bad at all. Now to start checking the parts a bit more thoroughly and putting them through my parts washer.









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  2. #12
    I have also taken a video of the endfloat which is a small amount with the bearing into the block but loads of float of the crank in the bearing. Is this normal? Could see an option to upload videos, so will take some photos and measure


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  3. #13
    Looks as though the last person to assemble it either didnít locate the thrust bearing correctly and tightened it down punching a new hole in it, or the play in the dowel has put stresses on the bearing in that area, causing the hole to elongate



    It has also worn the front face of the block, creating the extra thrust movement.









    Donít know if this travel of the crank is normal, but I gather this is controlled by the flywheel shims.






    Canít really see anything else untoward with the engine, apart from the rebore needed to address the thrust bearing wear and maybe fitting an oversize dowel for the bearing which is now loose, but letís see after it has been cleaned up.


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  4. #14
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    Following this with interest as I have 2 Litre Type 4 GE code lump sitting in the garage.
    Keep the updates coming.

  5. #15
    All this debris sitting in the bottom of the engine, so glad I decided to strip it down.




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  6. #16
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    What are the bearing faces like with all that shrapnel? god knows what's in the oil galleries make sure you really fush them out, also might be worth changing the con rods or at least checking there not bent, often a casualty with piston valve contact. You've certainly got a project there

    Mike

  7. #17
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** Peter's Avatar
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    Red face

    I have seen that so many times in our LinHai 260 buggy engines,. As said, check rods for straight, pistons don't just break up without cause or damage.

    Crank looks OK, unless you want to spend a load on a regrind, line bore etc you should be OK with just 'stringing' the crank and new shells, just make sure you get the right size as they are os outer and inner sizes.

    I was lucky on mine as the case had not been damaged but your thrust bearing suface looks like it needs dressing and a size up on the thrust bearing. rest look OK.
    The opinions expressed in my posts may not be made in a sound mind and should be taken in the spirit intended, Jack Daniels is fine.
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  8. #18
    So have laid out the engine parts for checking over and washing in the parts washer. A few issues to sort:





    Bearing for the conrods look not to good:





    Camshaft bearings also not brilliant, polishing on the lobes but no steps:








    So all in all, not going to be a quick strip and rebuild. Block needs a re-bore, new pistons, and crank, conrods and camshaft need a good check. Not even looked closely at the heads yet, but with the damage to pistons, looking at a full check and rebuild of them too.


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  9. #19
    Senior Member Phill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Supanovakit View Post
    Block needs a re-bore,
    What part of the block are you going to re-bore? Personally I would fit new Barrels
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  10. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by Phill View Post
    What part of the block are you going to re-bore? Personally I would fit new Barrels
    End float needs doing and will get the bearing bores checked.


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